Bacon's Castle

Another day trip with Molly and the kids -- this time to Bacon's Castle in Surry. Seems like we do a lot of stuff in Surry these days -- probably because it's a really good distance away. Just a little over an hour -- short enough so that the kids don't revolt in the car but long enough so that it feels like you're really going somewhere. Surry might as well be another world compared to the HRVA metro area -- there are gravel roads, fields of soybeans and tobacco, picturesque white farmhouses, the works.

Bacon's Castle is a 17th century Jacobean-style home, one of the only surviving examples of Jacobean architecture in the Western Hemisphere and the oldest house in Virginia, built in 1665. The house has a long and storied history, was home to a prosperous planter and his family, and a landmark during Bacon's Rebellion (which gave the house its name). The house has been expanded over the years, and underwent extensive renovations in the 1980s, but the past still feels very close when you're inside it. It was mind-boggling to peek into rooms and imagine the people who had lived in them, to touch a hundreds-year-old wooden banister and think about all of the hands that had touched it over the years.

We had thought that we would probably be allowed to roam the house, as we did when we visited the Moses Myers House a few weeks ago, but actually, the folks at Bacon's Castle prefer to take groups on a tour of the premises. Older kids will enjoy it, thanks to the interesting and very knowledgeable tour guides, but our little ones were antsy and wanted to run, which was a bit awkward at times. However, once the tour was over and we turned them loose on the grounds of the 17th century garden and the nearby slave quarters, they were able to whoop and holler to their hearts' content. Add in a picnic lunch under the trees on the house's wide lawn, and you've got a wonderful way to spend a summer afternoon.

Bacon's Castle is open from Friday to Sunday, March through November. Block admission can be purchased with Smith's Fort Plantation, another Preservation Virginia site that stands just across the James River. In addition to seasonal events, Bacon's Castle also offers group tours and has one of the best gift shops we've seen in a long while. Click here for more info.

5 Places to Have a Picnic (in Norfolk)

Did you know that July was National Picnic Month? Neither did I -- until July was almost over. (National Picnic People, make sure you publicize this a little better next year!) However, we did manage to have two picnics in the last week of July -- one with friends at Bacon's Castle in Surry (post on that forthcoming) and one in our very own backyard.

There are so many wonderful parks and beaches around the area that are ideal picnic destinations, but I thought I would share five of our favorite off-the-beaten-path places around town that are just perfect to visit with a blanket and a basket of goodies.

1. Pagoda and Oriental Garden: This spot is so secluded (usually) that it's easy to pretend you're all by yourself right in the middle of the downtown waterfront. There's also a lot to do -- from watching the ships on the river to making friends with the fish in the carp ponds and a million places nearby to walk to. A really convenient place to stop for lunch if you're out and about of an afternoon.

2. Norfolk International Airport Overlook: There are so many other wonderful things to see at the Norfolk Botanical Gardens that the airport overlook (where you can watch planes take off and land and listen to chatter from the control towers) is often overlooked (see what I did there?) You'll have to pay admission to the garden for the chance to climb the hill but for an airplane-obsessed kid, this is pretty much heaven.

3. St. Paul's Church: For this spot, you'll need to be able to disassociate yourself from the whole graveyard thing a little, but if you can, the churchyard is the perfect place for lunch, beauty and history wrapped up in one (free) package.

4. Moses Myers House: We reviewed the MM house last week. While there, I couldn't help noticing the wide sweeping lawn to the side of the house and imaging a blanket spread out there, under the trees.

5. The Hague: A lot of people in Norfolk don't know about the Hague as anything other than the body of water they pass as they drive over the Brambleton Avenue bridge west of downtown, but around the Hague are extensive areas for running, biking, or just plain lounging and taking in some of the best architecture in the city (we love looking at the Queen Anne homes that line the seawall). Our favorite picnic spot is the crescent-shaped memorial pavilion near the Chrysler Museum (which might be closed off due to construction right now) but there are luckily plenty of other spots to choose from.

What's your favorite thing to pack in your picnic basket? Our family isn't really into sandwiches but we can whip up a mean pasta salad quick as a wink. ;) This also gives us the chance to use the dishes and silverware that came with our picnic basket -- somehow things always taste better when you're eating it off of miniature plates.

Happy weekend!

Moses Myers House

Our playgroup visited the Moses Myers House the same day we visited the Norfolk Police and Fire Museum -- after all, they are right next door to one another. I had visited the Myers House last October for a ghost walk but I was excited to see it in the daylight as the house is truly one of the most beautiful places in Norfolk, with original 18th century furnishings, stunning ceiling filigree, and ornate Wedgwood fireplaces.

The Myers family was the first Jewish family in Norfolk, arriving in 1792, and remained one of the most prominent until the 1930s. They had a lot of tragedy befall them, leading to some sad but interesting stories (and a lot of ghost lore -- some of the Myers House staff can tell spooky tales of encounters with the former residents).

While at the house, we were also excited to see an original sculpture exhibit done by glass artist Beth Lipman, called "Adeline's Portal" after one of Moses's daughters. The exhibit features hundreds of clear glass pieces modeled on artifacts found throughout the Myers House; we could have looked at it all day and still found new things to admire.

Truthfully, I think our brood of toddlers were just a little too young to fully appreciate all the house had to offer, but they did enjoy exploring, especially in the house's rambly back garden. I think the 5-and-up crowd would more inclined to appreciate the history of the place and I'm looking forward to making more visits in the future -- with and without A.

Norfolk Police and Fire-Rescue Museum

A. and I have passed the Norfolk Police and Fire-Rescue Museum on Freemason Street probably a hundred times while on our way to other places. I've been reminding myself for almost a year to make a trip there, but it wasn't until last week that we finally stopped in with our playgroup -- three moms and a gaggle of eager two-year-olds.

The museum -- which is actually two museums in one building -- houses artifacts that represent the police and fire departments' long and storied histories -- helmets, badges, boots, insignia, etc. We had fun peering in the cases and at the old photographs, but I think the big highlight of the trip was the old police radio and flashing siren perched on the front desk. The kids took turns playing with it for the better part of an hour (with varying degrees of cooperation).

For me, it was a special moment to see my great-uncle (whom I never met) listed in the register of fallen firefighters, a little bit of a personal connection to all that history. It was also really eerie to be able to run our hands over the piece of the World Trade Center that stands by the door.

The Norfolk Police and Fire Rescue Museum is open Wednesday-Saturday from 10-4 PM, and Sunday from 12-4 PM and admission is FREE. And they give you your own badge, what more could you ask for?

Have a great weekend, everybody!

Elizabethan Gardens (Manteo, NC)

It seems like we can't get enough of the Outer Banks this summer. A few weeks ago, James, Anne and I went back -- this time, to Roanoke Island, to explore the little town of Manteo, which is one of the most charming spots I've ever visited. There was so much to see and do, but our favorite part of the day was spending time at the Elizabethan Gardens on the grounds of old Fort Raleigh.

Roanoke Island is the site of the first English colony in America. It was founded by Sir Walter Raleigh in 1587; by the time he returned from a voyage to England in 1590, all of the 115 Roanoke colonists had disappeared without a trace.

The Elizabethan Gardens were designed as a living memorial to this Lost Colony. Spanning 10 acres, the gardens were laid out to resemble a traditional 17th century English pleasure garden but also includes native plants and a few modern-day flourishes. There's a rhododendron garden, a tobacco walk, and rose and herb gardens, all extending from the Gate House, which houses a mysterious portrait of Queen Elizabeth I.

We enjoyed so much about the day, but I think Anne's favorite part of the gardens was the larger-than-life statue of Queen Elizabeth I. We had a hard time explaining to her that what she was seeing was a princess, since she's used to them being a little more sparkly. But I think Elizabeth serves as a better role model than any of those Disney waifs, for sure.

We're having a ridiculous week, thanks to some unexpected home repairs (long story), so things might be a little slower around here than usual. We'll be back in full force ASAP. Happy Monday!

Rosewell Plantation

Molly and I have been talking about taking the kids on a few day trips this summer, to get away from our comfort zone of library and splashpad and park, to explore some destinations a little further afield from Hampton Roads. Our first trip was to Rosewell, an 18th century plantation house in Gloucester, Virginia.

At one point in time, Rosewell was known as the most beautiful house in the American colonies. Built by the Page family in 1725, it encompassed over 12,000 square feet of living space plus several outbuildings. For almost 200 years, Rosewell hosted some of the country's most elaborate and luxurious parties and balls. Thomas Jefferson was a frequent guest, and actually wrote a draft of the Declaration of Independence while staying there.

The house burned down in 1916, and today, only ruins remain. Not much besides the four corner chimneys and some of the exterior walls are left standing, but we still found plenty to see while we were there. Unbeknownst to us, the ruins themselves are off-limits (there were no signs posted, so we just waltzed up the stairs and poked around inside -- oops), but two walking trails leading through the woods to nearby Carter Creek and to the old ice house are perfect for a kid-sized hike.

After exploring, we had a picnic lunch under the trees. The kids ran out some energy and had a mock swordfight or two on the grounds of the old Page family cemetery (nobody's buried there now -- the graves have been moved to a nearby churchyard). On the way out, we stopped by the small gift store and museum, which features artifacts found in and around the house during a recent archeological dig.

Bring boots (the grass isn't mowed), bring bug spray (ouch, is all I'll say), and watch out for poison ivy. But make the trip, it's worth it.

Happy weekend!

Outer Banks, Part 3: Ocracoke Village

While Anne and I were staying with family on Hatteras Island, we took a day trip to Ocracoke, probably the cutest and most interesting place in the whole Outer Banks. I've always been fascinated with Ocracoke, how remote it is, its laid-back, Key-West-type vibe, it's wild history as a WWII hotspot and a colonial-era pirate hangout.

Our journey began in Hatteras with a ferry ride that took us across the Pamlico Sound, followed by a short drive down the island to Ocracoke Village, which is situated at the very southern tip. All of Ocracoke Island, except for the village, is owned by the National Park Service, which means that it's as remote and pristine as you could hope for it to be. Nothing but dunes and grasses, and glimpses of the sea in between.

Our first stop, once in the village, was at Dajio, for a delicious seafood lunch. Then we explored: we went all the way around Silver Lake harbor and meandered some of the village's shady, unpaved lanes, poking our heads into the shops we passed. Our favorites were the Village Craftsman and the Ocracoke Community Store, a handmade art co-op featuring local artisans. A blackboard outside the latter proclaimed that a local resident was turning 90 that day -- the man himself was sitting on the porch to accept birthday wishes from passers-by, who rode by on bikes or in rented golf carts. (The streets on the island are narrow and mostly unpaved, and so those are the preferred ways of getting around; it's not really a car-friendly place).

We also paid a visit to the famous wild Banker pony pasture outside of town, but as it was 90+ degrees, the ponies themselves had decided to hunker down in their shelters for shade, like any smart mammal would. We didn't get to see as many as we wanted and we definitely didn't get any good photos of them. But as my 13-year-old cousin, child of the internet age, reminded me, I could just Photoshop them in to the pics we did get. (Sadly, my skills aren't quite up to that yet.) So...

This is the part you should definitely read if you are thinking about visiting Ocracoke: With the tourist season in full swing, and the waters in the Pamlico shoaling up as a result of recent storms, the Hatteras-Ocracoke ferry ride can take a little more time than anticipated. Wait times to get on one of the three free ferries can be upwards of two hours, and the ride, which is supposed to take 40 minutes, is actually more like an hour. My advice is to get there early, when the ferry opens at 5 AM, or else wait until the afternoon to cross and stay overnight on the island. I wish somebody had told us before we tried it -- we could have saved a lot of time (and sanity -- there's only so many times you can sing your toddler the "What do you do with a drunken sailor?" song before you feel like you might lose it).

But I would have done it all over again for the sight of the beautiful Ocracoke beaches. Stay tuned for the fourth (and final, and my favorite) installment of our OBX trip for more on that.