Outer Banks, Part 2: Hatteras Island

After our stint on Bodie Island last week, James had to go home to work, but Anouk and I headed south to Hatteras Island to meet up with family. We stayed in Buxton -- about midway down the island, a good middle point right smack dab between Pea Island and Hatteras Village. It was only a little over an hour away from where we'd been staying in Kitty Hawk, but the feel of the place was totally different. The further south we drove, the more of a laid-back small country town vibe we encountered. But there were still tons of things to do and see.

We started each day of our trip with breakfast at the Orange Blossom Bakery & Cafe. I feel like this is notable, because when I'm on vacation, there's not a lot that can get me out of my PJs and on the road before 10 or so. However, if you want to get one of the Orange Blossom's apple uglies (giant, delicious apple fritters), you need to get there before they sell out. So we got up bright and early, and off we went.

^^ They call them apple uglies for a reason. And that reason is deception.

Another must-see is the Cape Hatteras Lighthouse, which has the distinction of being the tallest lighthouse in the United States. In fact, it was so much fun that our group visited twice. The view from the top is supposed to be fantastic (the my cousins swore they could see for miles), but the climb is arduous, especially in hot weather -- akin to climbing a 12-story building with no air conditioning. Kids under 42" can't go to the top, children under 12 have to be accompanied by an adult, and during the height of the season, wait times to climb can be 30-60 minutes. Unfortunately, Anouk and I had to wait down below, but luckily there was enough to see around the grounds and in the museum that we didn't feel cheated (the exhibit on how the lighthouse was moved over a half-mile from its original location was truly fascinating.)

And of course, there was the beach. The beach! Just a few short steps from our front door -- we could hear the waves all night, even with the windows closed. It almost seems inaccurate to say that we went to the beach while we were in town because it didn't seem like we were ever very far away from it. Wherever we looked, there was golden sand and deep blue water. Anouk was still a little afraid of the water, but the big girls and I jumped right in. And we taught cousin D. to body surf -- her first time ever in the ocean. She took to it like a pro (and those aren't beginner-type waves).

A few more notes about places to go in the Buxton (and surrounding) area: Conner's Supermarket, which looks like a standard grocery store but actually has a great selection of organic and local foods; The Captain's Table, which has the best Hatteras-style clam chowder I've ever tasted; Uglie Mugs Coffee Shop and Haoles Sushi a few miles north in Avon; Buxton Village Books, which offers a great selection of books about the Outer Banks; Buxton Cemetery (make sure you have four-wheel drive). And I also highly suggest just turning down one of the many roads off of the sound side of Highway 12 around about sunset. Because you might just get a view like this:

And that's something definitely worth seeing.

Outer Banks, Part 1: Bodie Island

I read a study once that said that staring out at the line where sea meets sky produces an endorphin effect in the brain that stimulates feelings of relaxation and peace. I figure that after working our way up and down the Outer Banks last week, J., A. and I must be the most peaceful and relaxed people on the planet. Because there was a lot of sitting, staring, and relaxing.

Our OBX trip -- Anouk's first -- began with a weekend in Kitty Hawk with our friends M. and A. Of course the beach was the star -- specifically, the public beach across from the Kitty Hawk Bath House, which I highly recommend for beachgoers with kids. Not only is it beautiful and great for swimming, it features both lifeguard stands and outdoor showers. Fighting sand in your car is always a losing battle, but it still feels good to make the effort.

As soon as we set her down on the sand, Anouk ran headlong for the ocean, not knowing yet how much more powerful the OBX waves are than the ones at our local beaches. After the first one knocked her flat, she made sure to keep her distance for the rest of our stay. But she still found plenty to do on the beach -- building sand castles, watching the surfers, and leaving a trail of "pinthetheth" everywhere she went.

We also made time to explore the newly reopened Bodie Island Light Station in Nags Head. The lighthouse completed its years-long renovations in April, with the tower open to the public for the first time since 1872. Anouk was pretty impressed even with the view from the ground -- she kept pointing at the lighthouse and saying, "Wow! That's BIG!"





^^ And to take a (tiny) family portrait. We don't remember to get enough of these.

Another highlight of our trip was stopping by the Oregon Inlet Fishing Center in the afternoon to check out the day's catch. Around 3:00 or so, the fishing boats start rolling in and unloading their hauls. Some had pretty impressive catches (including one group who'd hooked a cobia that was about as big as Anouk). We also had a lot of fun looking at the names painted on the backs of the boats and decided what we would call our boats if we had them (mine isn't kid-friendly so I won't write it here. But think of Samuel L. Jackson in Pulp Fiction and you'll get it).

And of course, there was the food. We did some serious eating while we were in town. There's nothing like sea air to work up an appetite and the Kitty Hawk/Kill Devil Hills area offers some of the best restaurants in the Banks. Breakfast from Max's Real Bagels, fresh fish for dinner from the Austin Seafood Company, sweet potato biscuits from Dune's, lunch by the sea at Beachside Bistro... I'm sure I gained three pounds in the three days we were there. But you know it was worth every ounce.

Even with all this running around, there's still a ton on Bodie Island that we didn't get to. Jockey's Ridge, the Wright Brothers Memorial, the Children at Play Museum... I guess we'll just have to plan to go back really soon.

Stay tuned for our adventures in Hatteras and points south. Happy Monday!

Charlie's Cafe

A. and I had a bad day earlier in the week. We don't have many, but when we do get one it tends to go sour pretty fast. It was one of those days when you haven't gotten enough sleep (me) or else the sleep you got wasn't good (her) and you keep taking off your diaper and hiding it in inconvenient places around the house (definitely not me, I swear). By lunchtime we were in need of a pick-me-up, so we called up some friends and headed down Granby to Charlie's Cafe.

Molly and I have decided that we are adopting Charlie's as Our Place. You know -- the place where you go so frequently that you get to know everybody by name and maybe, if you go there enough times over enough years, they reserve a barstool in your honor and name a sandwich after you? Everything is better at Charlie's. For instance, this is how the pancakes look at Charlie's:




And this is the kind of chocolate milk you'll get at Charlie's:

And that's not even special kid chocolate milk, mind you. It's just the way it comes! For everyone!

There are many things to love about Charlie's, including the extremely friendly staff and the ready availability of vegan and vegetarian options, which is sometimes hard to find in standard diner fare. But the best thing about Charlie's is that they serve breakfast all day, which means if you don't like how your day is going, you can have a symbolic do-over in the form of a fluffy Charlie's omelet with spicy, oniony home fries and crumbly-delicious beaten biscuits on the side. And so we did. We also ordered a restorative bag of the famous Norfolk donuts to go because nothing turns a bad day around like a bag of donuts, hot off the grill (pan? fryer? however it is that these particular donuts are cooked). They also come stuffed with ice cream but we're saving that for a cure for a really bad day -- you know, like when our house burns down or our dog runs away or something.

Little Zeke (a restaurant critic in the making) pronounced it: "Smiley Charlie's -- a place for kids!" Three years old and already on the lookout! I fully expect him to take over this blog one day when I have moved on to different things ("geriatric-friendly living in Hampton Roads"). Watch this space.

Ocean View Fishing Pier

Anne and I spent three days at the beach last week -- in April! Tuesday, we went for a beautiful walk at East Beach, Wednesday we met up with friends at the Community Beach Park for a bracing swim, and on Thursday, we hit Willoughby Spit with our Auntie C. for a stroll along the Ocean View Fishing Pier.

The pier used to be known as Harrison's Pier, an iconic Norfolk landmark until it was swept away in Hurricane Isabel in 2003. I remembered crabbing from Harrison's Pier as a kid, but hadn't been back since the new pier was built. The new pier looked flashy and bright and swell, with the double-decker restaurant on top, but it just wasn't the same as the old pier I knew and loved. So I didn't even bother getting to know the new one. As you might have realized by now, I am not the biggest fan of change.

But on this 90-degree day, we were in search of some sun and sand and bright blue water and the pier is where we found it. We took our time walking out, pausing to peer down between the rails at the waves, turning back to wave at the sunbathers scattered along the shore of the Sarah Constant Beach. By the time we'd reached the building smack dab in the middle of the pier that houses the restaurant and tackle shop, the sea air had given us an appetite, so we decided to stop for lunch, and climbed the stairs to the rooftop level restaurant.

The rooftop deck of the pier restaurant is a wonderful place to be on a hot day. Even when it's stifling on the ground, there is sure to be a breeze ruffling around up top. There are also giant table/bench gliders to rock on while you enjoy it. And the view! We could see for miles, to the bridge-tunnel and to Point Comfort, all the way out to the Thimble Shoal light, which seemed a lot closer than you think it can be when you're looking for it from the shore.

(And the food wasn't bad either. We shared the steamer basket of clams and mussels, Aunt C. and A. and I. Two of our party of three had Bloody Marys that were just fantastic -- I'll let you guess which two! They don't skimp on olives at the OV Pier restaurant, no sir. Keep that in mind.)

For a fee, we could have gone through the tackle shop to the far side of the pier but we were content to stay up top and watch the fishermen there go about their business. The pier seemed to stretch for a long, long way out -- the same way it did when I was a kid. Some things don't change.

(What? Don't you wear galoshes and a tutu to the beach??)

Happy weekend!

Where to eat in Colonial Williamsburg

Last week I posted Part I of our trip to Colonial Williamsburg with friends. Today I want to post Part II:  namely, the two can't-miss places to eat (with kids or even without them) when you're in town.

My little sis went to William and Mary, and so our family got to sample many of Williamsburg's great restaurants when we visited her. But in my opinion, the only place to get lunch when you're there is The Cheese Shop, a little gourmet market/sandwichery on Duke of Gloucester Street. It has everything: the food is fantastic and it's just a short walk to the main attractions and sights across Henry St. Plus, there is heaps of cheese, and also wine. By the time we'd finished outletting on Thursday, we were all starving and so I suggested The Cheese Shop as our lunch destination -- and by "suggested" I mean that I basically told the others in the group they would regret it for the rest of their lives if we went anywhere else.

The only drawback of The Cheese Shop is that wait times can be upwards of 15-20 minutes for your food to be prepared and also, seating is limited, and most of it is outdoors. Because we hit it just at the lunch rush, our option was basically one of the benches that line DoG Street. We parked ourselves and our strollers, and tucked in. I think the verdict across the board was YUM and well-worth waiting for.

Try: the super-sized grilled cheese sandwich, with a locally made Chowning's Tavern root beer -- and don't forget to pick up a bag of bread ends for $1, to dip in the wonderful, mustardy house spread.

And then, for dessert! After Molly and I said goodbye to our friends B. and J. and Baby T., we drove by Sno-to-Go on our way out of town. The tiny, walk-up frozen-treat place is open only part of the year, and the last time I was in town, it was closed for the season. It opened back up in March, and I've been dreaming of it ever since. I raved about it so much that Molly had no choice but to join me in my pilgrimage.

Sno-to-Go's specialty is shaved ice snow-cones in literally hundreds of flavor combinations, which can then be "stuffed" with soft-serve ice cream. The combination at first sounds strange but you'll have to believe me when I tell you that the end result is one of those perfect "why didn't I think of it?" pairings. Even if you're not a shaved ice fan, the soft serve by itself is worth the drive -- it's thick and creamy and custardy delicious.

We ordered treats for ourselves and the kids even though it wasn't really the day for it -- 46 degrees and sleeting (!). We sat in the car with the heat blaring and shivered while we ate. But sometimes you just have to go for it -- Sno-to-Go is amazing, any time of year.

Try: Tiger's Blood (mixed berry and coconut) shaved ice stuffed with vanilla soft serve.

I think this face says it all:

Ain't nobody taking Baby Anne's Sno-to-Go. 

She will cut you, watch out. 

Easter at Fort Monroe

We celebrated Easter with my extended family by going out to brunch at the historic Chamberlin Hotel -- a whole crowd of us, 22 people in all. Aunts, uncles, cousins, grandparents, the works. People you love + good food + chocolate bunnies and jellybeans for all = what's not to get excited about?

The Chamberlin is located on the grounds of Fort Monroe, in Hampton. Because the base was decommissioned in 2011, after we ate, we were able to walk around and explore everything. James, Anne and I set off down the seawall to Overlook Beach and took in the sights: the old fort, which replaced an earlier one built in 1609, the Civil War-era barracks and batteries surrounded by an imposing moat, and the tons of beautiful historic houses. Since the base is being partially reclassified for residential use, some of these old mansions are actually for sale! We spent a long time picking out our favorites -- I eventually chose one with sleek white columns for my dream house. I think I could even handle having to drive over the bridge-tunnel all the time if it meant I could live there.

But the most exciting part of the day by far was getting the chance to see a panoramic view of the base and bay. During brunch, I asked our maitre'd if there was a place I could go outside to take photos, and she kindly offered to take us up to the top of the hotel where we could see everything -- almost the entirety of the giant stone fort, most of Old Point Comfort, and across the bay to Fort Wool and Rip Raps just offshore. So much history in one glance! It was amazing.

Above: A view of Robert E. Lee's quarters, from when he was stationed at Ft. Monroe.
Below: my beautiful cousin on the roof deck of the Chamberlin.  

All in all, it was a very special day and a holiday to remember forever. We're planning to go back to Fort Monroe when the weather is nicer to visit the Casemate Museum and see a little bit more of the grounds. And James really wants to take his kayak over to Fort Wool (I think I'll wait for the boat tour).

Happy Easter to you, if you celebrated! And if not, hope you had a happy weekend.